THERE is a beautiful
town of some 3,000 inhabitants five short miles north of Cobalt, on the
T. and N.O. It lies upon a gently sloping hill from Lake Temiskaming
west to the railway, four blocks back from the shore. Scarcely a part of
it from which cannot be seen the charmingly beautiful lake which
stretches across to the Province of Quebec, five miles away to the east.
It surely is an ideal site, and is being built up with rare taste, by a
people of culture and refinement seldom found in a new town. It was one
of the great surprises to me when I first looked upon it. I had long
heard of Haileybury, but the picture formed by the name, was that of a
rough mining village of small, unpainted houses, inhabited by a rough
element, and a few uncultured people who had “struck it rich,” bought
good clothes and got an organ. Instead I found a city—a city in all but
in size. The people are charmingly hospitable, educated and cultured to
a high degree in music and the arts. The college and university men are
so common that they do not count.
Haileybury has a fine
school system, shortly to be improved by a large high school. It has
many churches, which are well attended, and with ministers of ability,
much good is being done. So law-abiding is Haileybury that two
policemen, fine specimens of stalwart manhood, with little to do, keep
perfect order. The same may be said of both New Liskeard and Cobalt, the
former with two, and the latter with three of a police force.
Its hotels are far
above the standard for like size towns, the Matabanick being unequalled,
for size and appointments, in any town in Canada, while it has a club
house, the like of which is hardly to be found on the continent. The
membership of this club, nearly 500, is unique, being made up of men
from every mining district in the world.
Its architecture may be
judged by the pictures of residences, business houses and public
buildings which I give. Its name was taken from an English college town.
“Who was the first to
come? is a question the writer always asks about a town of which he is
writing. I asked it about Haileybury. Its long history runs back into
the vague, to the time when it was “a coming out place,” as here the
shore of the lake changes from a rock-bordered edge to level landing for
boats coming up the lake.
While many came and
went—the Indians for unknown ages— the voyageurs for years, and later
the Hudson Bay traders, it was Mr. P. T. Lawlor who first took up a
permanent residence here.
Mr. Lawlor was so much
identified with the early history of the town that I must needs give a
passing word to his memory. Born in Russell county, Ontario, in 1857, he
came to Temiskaming in 1885, and t0 the site Haileybury in 1887. Here he
took up that part of the place now known as Lawlortown, to the south of
the business portion. He became a councillor when Bucke township was
made a municipality. He was also one of its first school trustees. When
Haileybury was incorporated he was chosen its first Mayor. He was Mayor
when he died in May of 1907. He lived to see his land change from an
unbroken wilderness into a thriving town. His business ability was
remarkable. When a town is started, shrewd business men often induce lot
owners to share with them their lots for the promise of helping to bring
a railway to make valuable the residue. Shrewd men could not induce him
to share, and he left to his family a rich inheritance.
In a western town it
was once said: “The best business man in town is a woman.” This might be
said of Haileybury. One more gifted in business that counts, than Mrs.
Lawlor, would be hard to find; she is ever watching for industries that
will add to the growth of Haileybury. She gave bringing inducements to
one of the largest and most complete brick-making plants in New
Ontario, ready to start
with the opening of spring. And when a big foundry would have come, she
was first to offer inducements to bring it. The typical business woman
is too often cold, calculating, austere, save when selling something;
Mrs. Lawlor is as gentle-mannered as she is capable, and as kind as she
is able; and, like her husband, ever ready to do her part when her
town’s interest is in question.
Builders of Haileybury
Not until mineral was
found in nearby Cobalt was there any remarkable growth in the town. From
that date, 1903, is marked a rapid increase. It was to Haileybury that
some of the great mine owners came to reside. It is here we find Colonel
Hays, President of the Trethewey; the Timmons Brothers, and D. A.
Dunlop, of the Larose; C. A. Foster, of the Foster, and President of the
Green-Meehan; A. Ferland, of the Chambers-Ferland; Matt. Murphy of the
Devil’s Rock, R. Shillington of the Temiskaming, H. H. Lang and Wm.
Lewis of the City of Cobalt, Wm. Powell and Cyril T. Young of many
interests, W. S. Mitchell of the Casey Mines, the Townsite and numerous
others; the Wright Brothers, E. C. and Marty, discoverers of the
Drummond and the Jacobs mines, and the latter the owner of the charter
for the Montreal River Power Company, destined to become a great factor
in the future of the mining industry. Many of these have here built
beautiful homes, changing the crude village into a veritable city of
taste, for if we may judge by the late .Christmas numbers of the
newspapers, Haileybury, before the advent of the silver men, was not
much but “ a coming out place.” From these Christmas numbers we cannot
but conclude that it was they who “ laid” Haileybury.
Timber and Lumber
Not only is Haileybury
a “silver city,” but one of timber and lumber as well. Here are Howard
Dunbar, Clement A. Foster, the Little Brothers, A. J. Murphy, while the
£. B. Eddy Co., and J. R. Booth, have each a resident representative, S.
D. Briden for the former and M. S. Hennessy for the latter. It is
thought that for many years there will here be a timber supply for the
various companies. The town has the double advantage of the railway and
the lake, for bringing in and carrying out the supply and finished
Mayor Clement A. Foster
In the above, both in
mining and in timber and lumber, may be seen the name of Clement A.
Foster. He is Haileybury is young Mayor, chosen for the second time by a
majority that looks as though he had been the only one in the field. He
is one of the results of the camp. Coming a poor man, scarce beyond
boyhood, he worked up through and against many difficulties, to a place
among the few great successes of the Cobalt district. That which would
have turned the brain of many another boy, has but solidified and made a
man, capable and substantial, of the boy Foster. Both he and Mrs. Foster
are giving to Haileybury their best efforts towards its permanent
growth—he in a business way— Mrs. Foster in a social way—not the
heartless way of so-called empty society, but in the advancement of the
musical, the literary, the artistic progress of the town, the way that
counts for good— the way that leaves no heartburnings.
What the town requires
is a cheap and sufficient power for manufacturers, and this it could
have from the Montreal River, at the mouth of which thousands of
horsepower need but to be harnessed and transmitted, to make of the town
a busy hive of workers.
It needs, too, a
trolley line to connect with nearby towns, power for which it might have
from the same source as for its factories. It is well for any
municipality to safeguard its interests in giving charters for trolley
and power lines, but it is no part of wisdom to “safeguard” both away
from the municipality. Get it. Get them, either or both would be too
valuable to keep out on trifling terms.
Later.—A charter for a
trolley line is about to be given. It will be a boon to the camp, and
means the building up of the whole distance between Haileybury and
As showing the heart of
the people, I must cite the hospital work done in these upper towns. In
New Liskeard is one of the finest hospital buildings—The Lady Minto—of
any town its size in the country. Haileybury will soon have a fine
hospital, Mayor Foster having donated a twenty-two-acre site for it.
Cobalt has a good building to shelter and care for its ill and injured.
Even McDougall's Chutes had a hospital almost before it had any
residences; this for the railway workmen while the road was building.
Besides the public hospitals, there are a number of private ones, Dr.
Field, of New Liskeard, having a well-appointed one.
Whether these good
people need hospitals more than do we in the States I cannot say, but
our towns of like size cannot compare with those of Canada when caring
for the sick and afflicted is in question.
With so many people of
city culture it is not surprising that we find here so many who excel in
music. I have attended entertainments, whQse only talent was local, that
would rank high in any community. The names of Mrs. W. H. Train, in
Haileybury; F. A. York, in North Bay; and Mrs. C. A. Wismer, in New
Liskeard, stand justly high among musical directors. To them very much
is due the well-trained choruses of these towns.
The town has an
excellent comet band, which under the efficient leadership of J. Walter
Marriott, has grown from six to twenty members. This leader is a good
illustration of what these northern towns have to draw from. Marriott is
from Leicester, England, and for more than eight years was a member of
the Tenth Regiment Band. It is an interesting story that Walter tells of
his Egyptian campaign, “ when Kitchener fought the wild hordes of the
It is well worthy a
passing note of remark the excellence of some of the Salvation Army
singers. I have never heard so sweet voices among those of any other
country as here in the far north. And apropos of the Army in the various
towns. It is composed of a most excellent class of workers—and they are
doing much real good. They are assisted by all classes and creeds,
showing the high respect in which they are held.
He Had Sung with Carl
As indicating the
cosmopolitan crowds that find their way into a mining camp, I must give
you a pathetic incident, which came under mynotice one day in
aHaileybury hotel,where a strolling harper—and a good one he was—was
entertaining the crowd. He had been playing for some time, when he
struck up “ The Heart Bowed Down.” At this, a tramp-like fellow, who had
been listening intently, arose and sang the words. Often had I heard
that beautiful song, on many, stages and in many lands, but never before
had I heard it more beautifully rendered than by this wreck of a once
noble singer. At the close I called him to one side and asked, “Who are
you, and with whom have you sung?” for I knew he was no ordinary man. He
looked at me, and feeling that I was honest in my inquiries, gave me his
name and said: “I have sung all over the world with the Carl Rosa Opera
Company.” Then, “Say, Mr., if you ever write of this, don’t give my
name. Don’t give my name, my friends don’t know where I am, they don’t
even know that I am living, and I’m so far down, I don’t want them to
know.” Some of the people tried to reclaim him, for there are many kind
hearts in this northland. But it was all to no purpose. They clothed and
made him look again the cultured gentleman that he was by nature. One of
the churches took him into its choir, and for a time his solos were a
feature. Such music may never be heard again in this upper country. But
it was only for a time—only for a time. He went back to drink and
drifted away, no one knew whither. During his short reclamation he was
one of the most refined men I have ever met. His magnetism was such that
in a short while he had drawn around him a host of friends—friends who
would have done * everything for him. But it was no use—he drifted away,
and was again lost to all who had grown to love him.
I later learned that he
belonged to a great family in a European city, and that he had told me
the truth about his Carl Rosa campaign.
Haileybury excels in
many of the games and sports, but it can’t play hockey, while New
Liskeard, a town five miles to the north, along the lake shore, has
possibly the best hockey team, for the size of the town, in the world.
This team plays as near perfect hockey as I have ever seen the game
played. I am told that last winter, when they had beaten all local
teams, that the Victorias from Ottawa were brought here to play them.
They went back to the capital good subjects for a change of name. The
manager of the Canadian Soo brought here a professional team, and only
won by a single point—the manager saying that “If I had the New Liskeard
boys for one month, I could meet any hockey team in the world.” One
cannot realize that such perfection of play could be possible in so
small a town.
Athletic Bankers and
The above was written
before the bankers and lawyers played their game. I must therefore
modify “Haileybury can’t play hockey.” Yes, modify it a whole lot. Some
of them can play hockey. The bankers and lawyers are among the “some.”
The umpire said it was a one to one game. It would have been a two to
one, were it not that the lawyers carried their everyday practice into
the play. They are so used to getting smoothly through close places,
that they shot the puck clean through the mesh of the net without the
umpire ever seeing it—so the lawyers say. The bankers say that the claim
is an overdraft on fact and ^ refuse to cash up.
Your notion of lawyers
is that they are anything but athletic, The Haileybury variety differ
from your notion, and may be known by the “ One to One” with young men
who are proverbial as among the best in physical manhood—the bankers.
Apropos of the legal
profession of the town—twelve of them. They rank high in ability, and
are fine specimens of men, strong, young and mentally and physically
able. This may be said of the clergy and medical men as well.
Haileybury a Judicial
Efforts are being made
to have’Haileybury the Court Town of this upper country. Now, all but
the small cases have to be taken for trial to North Bay.
Capital of the New
Those who have a way of
looking into the future, have made of Haileybury the capital city, when
New Ontario shall have been made a separate province. They makejof New
Liskeard and Haileybury one great city, with the capitol buildings on
that magnificent site that lies between the two.
These seers of division
may be but idle dreamers, but when we think of Ontario being as large as
the twelve states that lie between the Mississippi River, at Illinois,
and the Atlantic Ocean, it certainly seems a most sensible move, and
especially so when Old and New Ontario differ so in conditions and
products. New Ontario will become one of the richest mining countries in
the world—Old Ontario is rich in farming, fruits and dairying. If this
great upper half had not men capable of conducting the affairs of state,
it might be well to have its mining interests managed by the dairymen,
fruit growers and farmers of the south. But it has men most efficient in
many things, and some do go so far as to say that they could even make
mining laws—mining laws that they themselves could understand after they
had made them.
They would, at least,
make them in their own interests, and in a way that mine owners could
not, on technicalities, lose both money and mines. But I was telling you
The newspapers of the
town are quite up with the times. The Haileyburian was the first
started. I mind with what interest we used to read the brilliant
clippings from this crisp paper. It was copied far and wide in the early
The Silver City News is
devoted to mining news almost exclusively, keeping a staff of men among
the mines, throughout the district, collecting everything of note to the
outside mining world.
New Liskeard has two
excellent newspapers. It was in this town where Roberts, a surveyor,
started the first paper in the upper country. This was the short-lived
Gazette. The Temiskaming Herald was the next. It and The Speaker will
rank with any in the Dominion for the size of town. The latter is so
much up-to-date that each week it gives a full page of “ Buster Brown ”
for the children. And apropos of this conception of Outcault’s, it is
the most popular of its kind in Canada.
In Cobalt, The Cobalt
Nugget, a bright, newsy paper, is the only one in the town, with The
Mining News to start very shortly.
Each of the papers of
the three towns got out most creditable illustrated Christmas
numbers—The Herald giving both halftone and line-cut work, having
employed a special artist for the latter. Oh, yes, the Press of this far
north country could give many a pointer, on excellence, to some of the
large city papers!
Teddy Bear and His
Speaking of R. F.
Outcault and his “ Buster Brown,” reminds me that another is here who
has made and is making glad the hearts of millions of little ones. On a
beautiful island, in Lake Temiskaming, and but a short distance from
Haileybury, Seymour Eaton spends his summers, in a most picturesque
cottage that stands on a point of the island. I used often to see him
during the summer, and was most entertained with the story of his “Teddy
Bears.” The cottage was built by Brown, of Wannamaker & Brown, of
Philadelphia. His was the island. He came years ago, before civilization
had become prevalent, but when white shirts grew fashionable he sold his
island and went away to far-off Abitibi. How long he will find that a
pleasing solitude is hard to tell, with the railway bearing toward it
and the gold-hunters pouring in.
Haileybury a Summer
So many places of
interest may be reached from here that each year more and more
pleasure-seekers are finding the advantages here offered. Across the
lake to the north-east is Murray City, 15 miles away. In another chapter
may be known what is to be seen there. Ville Marie, 12 miles down and
across the lake; the old fort and mission, 3 miles further, and the
famous Notch, at or near the mouth of the Montreal, some miles below.
The Devil's Rock
Three miles south, down
the lake from Haileybury, and on the same shore, is The Devil’s Rock, a
high bluff that rises sheer up, hundreds of feet, from the lake. It is
truly bold and picturesque—one of those sights one goes far to look upon
and wonder at what Nature can do with its rocks.
Years ago it is said
that Dr. Bell, the famous geologist of the Dominion Government, when
passing this rock for the first time, remarked that mineral must here be
present—the formation being perfect. But being a geologist he did not
find it. They seem always to know where it should be, but it is left to
be found by the patient prospector. In this instance, the prospector was
once almost as famous as the Dr. himself—but in another line— a more
popular line. You boys whose hair is just beginning to turn a little
silver, all remember that Cornwall lacrosse player whose prowess with
the stick carried his name across the con-tment—that splendid fellow,
Matt. Murphy. It was he who found the mineral which Dr. Bell said “must
be here.” He found it on three claims, turned them into a strong company
(of which Jackson Booth of Ottawa is President), and has since been its
general manager and resident director.
The stranger passing
the rock at night might get the impression that it was well named, were
he not told that those flickering lights came from the candles of the
miners, who are running drifts in from the water’s edge. Thousands of
dollars are thus saved by not having to sink shafts down through the
hundreds of feet of rock. Having drifted in to catch the veins they will
on these veins—now grown rich—go down to reach the lodes which they are
now confident lie below.
Matt’s old love of
athletics is being renewed. He ever takes an interest in honest sports.
The rink managers are giving to Haileybury a cheerful winter.
The Beauty of the
It is truly a beautiful
sight to sit in this great rink and watch the youth and beauty of the
town glide round and round to the music of an excellent band. Ye who
know but the sallow faces, can little conceive of the ruddy,
health-glowing beauty of the far north girl; cultured and active, she
moves upon the ice with an inborn grace that is truly pleasing to look
A Cosmopolitan Town
Haileybury is many
towns in one. Here are Ottawans, Torontonians, and from points all down
the line, while one could well think that Mattawa had been depopulated
that Haileybury might be. From there came the Timmons Brothers, the Fer-lands,
Dohertys, Dunlops, Capt. W. A. and A. H. Rimsbottom, Dr. Haentschel,
Joseph Bell, P. A. Ferguson, John Rankin, Mrs. Edwards, Mrs. Dr.
Jackson, and many others prominent. It was Mattawa from which came the
obliging and efficient Mining Recorder for the Temiskaming District, Mr.
Geo. T. Smith.
This town has been more
to Haileybury than any other one. Many of the finest residences are the
homes of Mattawans, and 1 sometimes think that the cordiality of
Haileybury may be attributed to the people from that hospitable little
place down the Ottawa, where hospitality is so proverbial.
In concluding this
necessarily brief sketch, I cannot more heartily, more accurately do so,
than in the words of a lady of much culture and wide travel, who, in
speaking of the towns of the north, said: “I found Haileybury, Ontario,
one of the most delightful places I have visited. Its people are
charmingly cordial, and the sort you like to have charmingly cordial
toward you. They make you love both them and their town, and in going
away you carry with you kind remembrance of many acts of genuine