| “When silent Time wi’ 
		lichtly foot Had trod on twenty years,I sought again my native land Wi’ mony hopes and fears;
 Wha kens gin the dear friends I left May still continue mine,
 Or gin I e’er again shall taste The joys o’ auld lang syne?”
 After a few days in 
		Winnipeg I stepped on board the steamer Minnesota, bound for Fisher’s 
		Landing, on the Red Lake River, on 13th October, 1877, the exact day and 
		month on which I had arrived at the Red River eighteen years before. 
		There were many passengers, notably the lovely twin daughters of the 
		Hon. A. Morris, of the Beardy interview already described, attended by 
		the Lieutenant-Governor’s private secretary. My good friend J. A. 
		Grahame, Esq., our chief commissioner, was also on board, and last, but 
		not least, our inveterate opponent Dr. Schultz, now a member of the 
		Federal House of Commons at Ottawa, where he represented an Indian 
		constituency, whose lands have nearly all become the property of 
		Pharaoh’s. That bone of contention, the Company’s charter, being now out 
		of the way, the doctor was more amiably disposed, feeling no doubt that 
		he had conquered, and we made a merry trio, past disagreements being 
		happily forgotten. Time in its flight had sapped the vigour and vitality 
		of this son of Thor, and there were evident signs of something wrong 
		with the respiratory organs. It was,-however, quite evident that his 
		ambition was still alive and unsatisfied. Above the American 
		boundary the course of the Red River is very tortuous, and our progress 
		through Dakota was slow, so that the boat did not reach her destination 
		until the 16th. On that day I had my first railway ride, which brought 
		me into Duluth, on St. Louis Bay, at the west end of Lake Superior, and 
		the extreme eastern limit of the prairie country. High above the present 
		margin of the lake rises the terrace, five hundred feet high, which has 
		been left dry by the subsidence of the waters, and at the foot runs the 
		narrow margin of beach at the present level. The terrace is broken by a 
		river which flows into the Bay, and on one side of the river is a flat 
		reach of low, swampy ground; on the other the ground rises sharply into 
		a bluff. On this high land the houses of Duluth are perched, like goats 
		grazing on a steep hillside —an arrangement one sees at Quebec, at Bar 
		Harbour, and at some small places in the English counties of Cornwall 
		and Devon, but scarcely anywhere else. From here the steamer Manitoba 
		conveyed us to Fort William, once the headquarters of our bitter 
		opponents the North-West Company, who had made it a really formidable 
		fortress, with regular works and a heavy armament, so as to terrorise 
		their savage allies and dependants. At Michipicoten Fort we took on 
		board a Mr. Bell, who, with a surveying party, had been examining the 
		natural resources of James Bay. A run through the splendid American 
		locks of Sault St. Marie, and we entered Lake Huron, journeying then to 
		Port Huron, River St. Clair, Toronto, and Ottawa. On the day upon which I 
		left Winnipeg, Mr. Bannatyne, a member of Parliament of the Federal 
		House at Ottawa, kindly asked 'f he could do anything to help me on 
		“entering the realms of civilisation.” I thanked him, but could think of 
		nothing. He insisted, however, on giving me a letter of introduction* to 
		the Premier, the Hon. A. McKenzie, who was his warm friend, and who took 
		a keen interest in all that concerned the Far West. He was kind enough 
		to add that he knew of no other person so well qualified to satisfy him 
		in this respect as myself. On reaching Ottawa I 
		duly presented myself and my letter, and after a few preliminary forms 
		of etiquette I received intimation at the British Lion Hotel, where I 
		had taken up my quarters, that the Premier was ready to receive me. This 
		was my first encounter with the man who virtually ruled Canada from the 
		Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific. He was a spare man, of medium height, 
		with a well-set head, and spoke in a fatherly manner, with a strong 
		reminiscence in his accent of his native Perthshire hills. “I am glad to 
		meet you, Mr. Campbell,” he said. “1 know Mr. Bannatyne very well. 1 
		have seen several very interesting quotations regarding your travels 
		from the Manitoba Free Press and the Toronto Globe and Mail. It is quite 
		evident that we have in our North-West Territory a country of vast 
		possibilities. Yes, our duty now is to get those vast prairies stocked 
		with good hardy settlers. You are on your way to Scotland, I understand. 
		Well, you know the importance of the country over which you have been 
		travelling for these two years. Do please impress that upon the people 
		you come in contact with. Many hard-working people in the old country 
		would be glad to know of such a place where they could become prosperous 
		and enjoy a free life.” Then we ran our fingers 
		over an old map of the country, together with a rough sketch of my own. 
		I ventured to suggest that the Canadian Pacific Railway, then under 
		survey, was surely out of place, being at least two hundred miles too 
		far north, and that the North-West capital should be on the Bow River, 
		near the Rocky Mountains, instead ot on Battle River. If on the former 
		river, I added, ranchers would homestead round it, the district being 
		much frequented by buffaloes, and in every way rich and fertile. The 
		projected railway should start from Winnipeg and go directly over the 
		plains to the first pass in the Rockies without diverging so far north 
		as the survey before us indicated. The Premier listened to 
		every word with attention, and looked at me in some surprise. “What if war should 
		break out between England and America?” he said. “In that case the 
		further the railway is from the boundary the better.” This he regarded 
		as the most important point, and I of course insisted no further. He 
		presented me with a book containing his pub’ic speeches made during a 
		visit to the old country the year before, and we parted. This man, whose 
		blameless and honourable life has been one long record of devotion to 
		Canada, had been wholly the architect of his own fortunes. He was a born 
		orator, but the want of early education stood in his way as a politician 
		in the high sphere to which he had attained. When I saw him his 
		Government term of office had almost expired, and an arduous campaign 
		was in view. His opponent, Sir John A. Macdonald, was an astute 
		politician, of inexhaustible fertility of resource and untiring energy. 
		He saw that some amusement must be provided for Canada 'ust then, 
		something to keep her busy, and he was quite willing to take the leading 
		role in the play. The country was a victim to contradictory cravings, a 
		symptom of her awakening life: a craving for Free Trade; a craving for a 
		“national policy” (though no nationvel awhile); a craving for any new 
		and violent emotion. She wished to assure her interests and gratify her 
		imagination at the same time. “J. A.,” however, was an old campaigner, 
		and there was no fear of any yielding or any indecision on his part. His 
		unfortunate association with the “Pacific scandal” was already almost 
		forgotten; and, in view of his distinguished record of political 
		service, he was almost entirely reinstated in the good opinion of his 
		fellow-countrymen. I gathered from the Premier in my conversation with 
		him that he was going to the country on a Free Trade platform. I told 
		him bluntly that he could not carry it. It was quite premature in a 
		country so young and with an enormous financial burden already on its 
		shoulders by the acquisition of our vast territory. From Ottawa I travelled 
		to Montreal, the chief commercial centre of Canada, and once the pride 
		of Louis of France. I must, however, leave it undescribed. Poor France! 
		It was not her outward enemies, but her own unstable mind, that lost her 
		this glorious country. Wonderful progress this 
		Canada has made, when :t is remembered that no more than three centuries 
		have passed since Jacques Cartier, of St. Malo, sailed up the St. 
		Lawrence and took possession of the picturesque penin sula of Gaspe in 
		the name of Francis I. Truly this part of Canada is full of attraction, 
		of inspiration, particularly on the historical side, for the future 
		fiction writers. As it comes through the mellowing mists of the years, a 
		wonderful, many-coloured tissue of stirring incident and striking 
		adventure, there is no more fascinating and absorbing story than that of 
		the French regime in Canada, from its beginning in the sixteenth century 
		to its splendid, heroically tragic close on the Plains of Abraham in 
		1759. Hardly less replete 
		with suggestively picturesque material are the narratives of the early 
		explorers and pioneers, Jesuit missionaries, traders, and fur hunters, 
		coureurs de bois who penetrated the pathless wilderness of the interior, 
		set their frail barques afloat on the great lakes, discovered the father 
		of waters, the mighty Mississippi, and passed beyond the barrier of the 
		Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean. On 8tb November I was 
		in Quebec, and, like the Greeks of old, I was ready to shout, “Thalatta! 
		Thalatta!” It was more than eighteen years since I had seen the sea, far 
		away in the Arctic North, and now there was something vivid, poignant, 
		indescribable, in the sensations with which I again looked upon it. The 
		essential spirit of all the tasks and struggles, all the successes and 
		failures, all the outer incident and inner development, of these years 
		seemed concentrated in that moment when the smell of the ocean, though 
		still many miles away, suddenly brought back the sensations of my far 
		boyhood, and showed me, as it were, in an isolated picture the life that 
		had come between. Trilling incidents sometimes mark an era in a man’s 
		life. That first breath of the sea formed the colophon to the principal 
		chapter in mine. As for Quebec, she has 
		little to tell us to the credit of her mother-country, though many of 
		her children still keep for her a loyal corner in their hearts. Her 
		wonderful rock citadel might well seem a leisurely, a restful haven, 
		safe from all the powers of waste and ruin. But the writing was on the 
		wall, and such gallant sons of France as Biencourt, De Chastes, La 
		Verendrige, and poor Lally might fight and toil and die without a glance 
		or a word of thanks from the revellers at Versailles or St. Cloud. Such 
		men gave to France nearly half a continent, but she despised the gift, 
		so fate took it back again. Britain got it, though the life of brave 
		James Wolfe was a high price to pay, and as I stood, hat in hand, on the 
		Heights of Abraham, the British flag was floating over the citadel. I 
		found monuments to the English Wolfe, the French Montcalm, and the 
		American Richard Montgomery, who fell here in 1775 while heading an 
		American storming party during the War of Independence. Thus Quebec has 
		its threads of connection with the history of three great nations. It 
		has too other associations with the greater and older world beyond its 
		boundaries. In the Protestant cemetery is the grave of Major Thomas 
		Scott, the brother of Sir Walter Scott. The mother of Napoleon III. 
		sprang from a Quebec family. The father of our beloved Queen Victoria 
		was a resident of the fort. And, as a poi it of special interest to 
		myself, I recalled that Lady Matheson, the wife of the proprietor of my 
		native island, was born here. In the early days of the colony, Abbe de 
		Fenelon, half-brother of the famous author of Telemachus, lived in 
		Quebec. And Audubon was once a visitor on St. Louis Road, collecting 
		data and leaving his name to an avenue on St. James le Moine’s Place. Thus rich in its 
		associations, Quebec is rich too in natural beauty. As I stood beside 
		the flagstaff and saw the soft light on the grey walls of the citadel, 
		and bright gleams of sunshine on the spires and windows of the buildings 
		sloping to the river, the white cottages of the outlying straggling 
		villages, and the purple haze over sailing boat and ocean liner, in 
		which 1 was to sail on the morrow, I thought indeed that one might 
		wander far and not find so fair a scene as in this ancient fortress of 
		the St. Lawrence. What most surprised me was however it happened that we 
		conquered it at all. But General Wolfe sent his troops up a path that 
		the French thought was practically invincible, to the Heights of 
		Abraham. If there had been a corporal’s guard at the top of the path, 
		our men would never have reached the heights. When he reached the top 
		Wolfe was without cannon, and Montcalm had only to keep within his 
		defences in order to be safe from assault. But the French general issued 
		forth from those, and fought the enemy in the open plain, with the 
		result that he was defeated, and Quebec taken. General Wolfe, 
		undoubtedly, was a brave and skilful general, but had it not been for 
		the follies on the part of his foe that he hardly could have 
		anticipated, he would have had to give up all hope of taking this 
		enormously strong fortress I was now examining, and his name would not 
		have stood out in history as one of our greatest warriors. On gth November the 
		steamship Polynesia steamed out of the river, and the fortress sank out 
		of sight beneath the western horizon. On the 20th I landed in Glasgow, 
		and on 13th December in Inverness. On 7th February, 1878, I crossed the 
		Minch to Stornoway in the steamship Ferret, where I learned that the 
		“titular governor of the Lewis,” who treated me so severely in my “ 
		herd-loon ” days, had been dismissed from office and struck off the roll 
		of solicitors, and narrowly saved from still further unpleasant 
		consequences. I had no wish to be vindictive, but the memory of his 
		unkindness had long been sore in my boyish heart. It struck me strangely 
		that the first news to greet me on my return should be of his disgrace, 
		which I received with sorrow. On the gth I reached my old home, Ness, 
		and after an absence of nineteen years found I had nearly forgotten my 
		mother tongue. I may say with Edmund, “The wheel is come full round; I 
		am here.” What a havoc time had wrought! My second sister now lived in 
		the old house all alone of us. To me it seemed infinitely lonely, 
		infinitely sad, as lonely as the great prairie itself and much more sad. 
		History repeats itself. Things turn themselves as of yore, only they 
		cannot bring back “the touch of the vanished hand,” nor “the sound of 
		the voice that is still.” The minister, the miller-elder, and other 
		heroes of my so-called school days had passed over to the majority, and 
		I found a generation had grown up which “knew not Joseph.” To all 
		outward appearance my native parish had remained during these two 
		decades in status quo, only things seemed smaller than they did. The 
		granite cliffs of the Butt seemed to have sunk into the Atlantic at 
		least two hundred feet, and the rivers were but silver threads. Well, 
		the prairie is wider than the Lewis, but not dearer; there are memories 
		in the brook that ran by my mother's door that all the vast waters of 
		the big Saskatchewan could not wash away. “Everybody should 
		graduate in the university of Paris,’’ said Disraeli. So to Paris I 
		went, though not, alas! to the university. To visit Paris to good 
		purpose demands a preliminary education, except perhaps the Exhibition, 
		which was being held at the date of my visit. That spectacle was to me 
		very wonderful, intoxicating the imagination. After .so long in the 
		inhospitable northern wilderness I found it indescribably gorgeous, 
		fantastic, fairylike. How to secure and bring 
		away all the varied impressions which a review' of its history suggests 
		— the Paris of Richelieu, of the Louis’, of Madame Elizabeth, of Marie 
		Antoinette; Paris imperial, with a Buonaparte at its head ; Paris 
		republican, with the Royal princes plotting round the corner—that was 
		too great a task for a passing visit. France has been a republic for 
		thirty years, yet in that soil of surprises the fortunes and characters 
		of the princes of Bourbon and Orleans may w’ell be observed with 
		interest. I watched a military review' in honour of the Shah of Persia (Nasir-ed-Din) 
		at Chalons, whence Napoleon III. set out to meet disaster at Sedan. I 
		had gone to France with a certain prejudice against the French army as 
		compared with the German, but the review changed my opinion. The 
		physique of the men seemed excellent, and their faces wore a look of 
		endurance and determination, as if, conscious of lost ground in the 
		past, they had resolved to recover their prestige and their provinces. 
		They w'ere splendidly equipped too both with metal and with teams. I saw all the sights: 
		Notre Dame, with its famous tapis des souverains, the finest Gobelins 
		work in the world; the boulevards; the Sainte Chapelle; the Palais de 
		Justice; the Pantheon and Invaliles, where Buonaparte :s buried; the 
		Place de la Concorde ; the Champs Elysees ; the Palais de l’Industrie; 
		the Louvre; Versailles ; St. Cloud ; St. Denis ; the resting-place of 
		the kings, and the Ilall of Mirrors, with its two hundred and forty-two 
		feet of polished floor and its unique views over the long gardens; the 
		Opera ; the wonderful tower of St. Jacques la Boucherie; and lastly the 
		Ceil de Boeuf, which students of Carlyle and of the Revolution know so 
		well, and in which so many public mischiefs had their origin. I found it difficult to 
		explain to myself why France had lost her North American possessions. 
		Her colonial “sphere of influence” from Senegal to Siam was still great. 
		Do civilised nations lose the courage of their primitive ancestors? 
		Undoubtedly the love of la gloire is strong in the French, and they have 
		a dash and a chivalry far removed from cowardice. The famous householder 
		who stayed quietly in bed when burglars were in the house, because he 
		“would rather be a coward than a corpse,” had no French blood in his 
		veins. It seems that life has increased in value, and in imperilling it, 
		either in war or travel or other adventures in colonisation, the nation 
		is staking more. Even the high-strung sensitiveness of a cultivated race 
		may sometimes tell against it in conflict with ruder temperaments. It 
		seems indeed in the struggle for life that that race most prospers 
		which, by constant practice in meeting hazards, trains itself out of 
		fear. But there are statesmen who find dangers in over-colonisation. 
		Land-hunger may become land-fever, and nations have been known to suffer 
		from land-indigestion Possibly Canada was overtough a morsel for France. In London I went, of 
		course, to the House of Commons, honoured by the invitation and escort 
		of the nephew of England’s greatest Lord Chancellor, Sir George 
		Campbell. General Roberts had just made his famous march on Candahar, 
		and Lord Beaconsfield was fresh from the Berlin Congress with “Peace 
		with Honour ” in his satchel. I had long ardently wished to hear Mr. 
		Gladstone speak, and on that evening my wish was gratified. 1 listened 
		to him for an hour and a half as he stood there on the left of Mr. 
		Speaker Brand, and felt that I had never heard oratory before. It was 
		amazing, enthralling, exquisite. The next day Sir George accompanied me 
		to the House of Lords, where I found MacCallum Mhore himself, or 
		MacCaileem Mor, son of Big Collin, Duke of Argyle, upon his feet, 
		briskly denouncing the Government for the massacre of Balak ordered by 
		the Sultan, Abdul Hamid. There was something 
		almost comically bellicose about his appearance :n debate— “the Rupert 
		of debate”—the small figure, with lifted head, crowned with a crest of 
		waving hair, rising, as some thought, like the plume of a Gaelic chief’s 
		bonnet, and, as others saw it, like the comb of a fighting-cock. While 
		coming south, early ’.n June, the Duchess lay dead in London, and much 
		sorrow was felt in the west coast of her native land. And an innkeeper 
		at Oban expressed himself to me, while talking about the noble family, 
		thus: “Weel, ye see, the Duke is in a vera deeficult position: his pride 
		o’ birth prevents his associating with cordiality among men of his ain 
		intellect; and his pride of intellect equally keeps him from associating 
		pleasantly with men o’ his ain birth.” Unquestionably the descendant of 
		Earl Archibald, who fell at Flodden field, and of the unfortunate first 
		Marquis of Argyle, executed at the Cross of Edinburgh in 1661, the chief 
		head of my clan, was a striking personality. Lord Beaconsfield rose 
		for his Government, and said: “I look to the individual character of 
		that human being as of vast importance. He is a man whose every impulse 
		is good. However great the difficulties he may have to encounter, 
		however various may be the impulses that may ultimately control him, 
		lr's first impulses are always good. He is not a tyrant; he is not 
		dissolute. He is not abject; he is not corrupt.” Such was the graceful 
		panegyric on the Assassin of Turkey, pronounced by the man whom Daniel 
		O’Connell once described as “the lineal descendant of the impenitent 
		thief who died on the cross.” As for London itself, 
		what can I say of the marvel of its throbbing life? I looked at it from 
		the dome of St. Paul’s, and thought how many notable Scots had here 
		earned the oatmeal upon which to cultivate literature 
		comfortably—Murray, Macmillan, Blackwood, Chambers, and the rest. I 
		looked at it from the Monument, and overwhelmed myself in statistics, 
		wonderful enough to me at the time, though small compared to the facts 
		of to-day. The Lord Mayor, notwithstanding his high-sounding title, 
		rules over but a single square mile of territory; but that square mile 
		contains the financial pulse and heart of the world, and is the richest 
		possession in the universe. Yet we are told on high authority the day is 
		coming when the archseologically-disposed New Zealander will stand on 
		Westminster Bridge and sketch the ruins of St. Paul’s. I passed on to 
		Edinburgh, once the centre of the intellect of Britain, lime was when 
		Sidney Smith and De Quincev were attracted to the home of Dugald Stewart 
		and Mackintosh, of Cockburn and Scott and the Blackwoods, and when 
		Jeffrey and Wilson and Brougham formed a literary tribunal which could 
		crown a man or slay him. Now, alas! Scottish lairds and Scottish nobles 
		complete their education on the banks of the Isis. So 1 had seen my native 
		land, and, my tour over, the end of September found me snugly on board 
		the S.S. Devonia, bound for New York. In the saloon or on the after-deck 
		of an Anchor line steamship steering west, there can be seen at this 
		season of the year more of the American lounging class than can easily 
		be found anywhere else out of the States. Notwithstanding this lounging 
		habit, and the hereditary vice of inquisitiveness, I found them very 
		pleasant, free and open as their native air. With Bunker’s Hill in view 
		we steamed into the shallow water which narrows into Sandy Hook, and on 
		5th October we were in New York harbour. Wall Street was a 
		confusion of tongues. The failure of the City of Glasgow Bank was the 
		eagerly-discussed topic of the day. The great East River suspension 
		bridge was then in course of construction, and on each bank lay great 
		blocks of hard red granite from the quarries of home. Scotland has done 
		her part in the work of empire-making. She has laid the foundation of a 
		good many of the wonders of the modern world. New York was in a sunshiny 
		mood, and I left it almost praying for smoked glass, lest, like Milton, 
		I should be “blasted with excess of light.” In Ottawa I found that 
		all my political prophecies had come true. The McKenzie administration 
		had gone to pieces on the rock of Free Trade—an excellent thing, only 
		premature. Sir J. A. Macdonald was undoubtedly the more accomplished 
		politician of the two leaders. He was a curious mixture of rashness, 
		patience, and prudent calculation, and he believed in his star. He had a 
		knack of twisting the Canadians round at his will, and an even more 
		useful knack of finding pleasant ways cut of difficult positions. He got 
		round people, deputations, nations, and played with them and used them 
		for his own ends, and kept on good terms with them all the time. He gave 
		Canada what it wanted, a toy—a catchword. Beaconsfield came home 
		proclaiming “Peace with Honour.” Macdonald proclaimed the “National 
		Policy,” and set all Canada shouting with delight. Beaconsfield advised 
		the Queen to style herself Empress of India. Macdonald entreated the 
		Princess Louise to come to Ottawa to win Canadian hearts. He was a man 
		to be studied rather than criticised. The ex-Premier, on the 
		other hand, was an unassuming man, remarkable chiefly for a sound 
		acuteness of mind, a great knowledge of human nature, and a considerable 
		fund of common sense, which he applied in his own frank unconventional 
		way to the questions that came before him. I do not know that 
		either of these gentlemen wanted these appreciations written, and my 
		fear is that when we meet in heaven they may be displeased. One thing 
		they will not deny, and that ts, that the work of a Prime Minister even 
		in a colony is arduous. No ordinary man can think of it without a 
		shudder, or be other than devoutly thankful that the risk of being 
		called upon to take this office is comparatively small. Making my way gradually 
		westwards by the Lakes, I stopped at Chicago. Of course, the stockyards 
		were the first objects of interest. They can hardly, however, be 
		described as pleasure grounds. Eighty per cent, of the Chicagoans tell 
		you, “ Oh no, I have never been to the yards myself, but you ought to 
		see them before you leave the city.” It may be added that the other 
		twenty per cent, are employed in or about these stockyards. Chicago was 
		unknown until one day towards the middle of the century some one 
		slaughtered and packed the first lot of cattle and hogs. To-day the 
		stockyards cover miles of ground. From the top of a Chicago “ 
		sky-scraper” the place must look like a town of cattle-pens. When I was 
		there (1878) they had thirty miles of feeding-troughs and fifty miles of 
		railway connecting the yards with the outer world. Six millions of hogs, 
		three of cattle, and three of sheep found their way into these yards 
		annually. The men, wearing broad soft hats and riding on wiry nags, gave 
		a certain picturesqueness to the scene, but the atmosphere was, on the 
		whole, just a trifle “bluggy.” Those who made their fortune here 
		preferred to have a retreat in another suburb. Though I did not see any 
		machines into which a hog went squealing at one end to come out sausages 
		at the other, I certainly saw enough to convince me that if these yards 
		were by any miracle to bob suddenly out of existence, the effect on the 
		world’s feeding arrangements would be serious. At St. Paul’s a spare, 
		nervous man joined the train. “I guess we shall reach Winnipeg in a 
		month,” he remarked, with a strong American accent. I was much impressed 
		with the extraordinary transparency of his slender frame. Seldom, I 
		thought, had a body more fragile encased so energetic and active a 
		spirit. He was exceedingly frank and talkative, full of jokes and 
		anecdotes, a welcome companion on a lonely journey, and we soon became 
		fast friends. Here also Mr. William Ilardisty, of my Company, joined me. 
		“My name is Anderson,” said the American, “so you see I am a bit Scotch, 
		as I take you to be.” Little did I guess how soon the bright sunshine 
		which was about him was to be darkened. The railway to the 
		north not being yet finished, it took a week by waggon, etc., to reach 
		the village of Emerson in the extreme north of the States. I had 
		travelled two thousand miles upon their soil. A magnificent heritage 
		indeed the Pilgrim Fathers left to their descendants. And who can 
		predict its future ? Nothing is too great to hope for it. Let but this 
		youthful giant among the nations set herself to protect by justice what 
		has been won by prayer and by the sword, and then we shall see what may 
		be done in time to come by a nation armed with all the resources of 
		wealth and civilisation, and sustained by a Christian ideal. Mr. Anderson and I put 
		up at the same hotel in Emerson, a tiny village standing out lone and 
		distinct on the prairie, I to await a conveyance to Winnipeg, he to 
		await his destiny. Here we enjoyed a maximum of luxury at a minimum of 
		cost, as the villages clustered on each side of the boundary line were 
		by stealth doing their best to rob each other of their customers. We 
		beguiled the time ir various ways, the most novel being in teaching me 
		to lounge “American fashion.” One night, whilst I was 
		reading in this new attitude, my friend hurriedly entered and began 
		nervously pacing the room. Halting suddenly behind a door which was just 
		being opened, he shouted at the top of his voice, “Up hands, or you are 
		a dead man!” A shot, a whiz, and a bullet had grazed the bridge of my 
		nose, and entered the wall at my side. The “American fashion” had saved 
		my life. Had I been in my usual posture I should have been the first of 
		the trio to enter eternity. A succession of shots followed, and Anderson 
		lay on the floor quivering in a pool of blood. The big, burly desperado 
		who had followed him into the room was the last to fall, but soon he 
		staggered over the chair my feet had rested on only a few seconds 
		before. There he lay, blood spurting from mouth and nostrils like a 
		buffalo bull. He who had killed many a man and feared none lay trembling 
		now under the hand of death. Through the last spasm, the last quiver, 
		the last convulsion, he firmly held the revolver, with finger on 
		trigger, as if to guard him through the valley of the shadow. I was 
		stupefied at the suddenness of it all. One ought, I suppose, to be 
		astonished at no revelation of human tragedy, but I confess I was 
		completely taken aback. He turned out to be the last of a gang of 
		desperadoes, and the United States Government had offered ten thousand 
		dollars for his capture, dead or alive. When I reached Winnipeg 
		I found myself ready to say, like the Doge of Genoa in the Palace of 
		Versailles, “What most surprises me about it is to see myself here.” On 
		the whole Winnipeg was a disappointment. It seemed given over to two 
		classes of men, viz., the social derelict and the self-constituted 
		derelict. The first were men of the Jean Valjean type, who, having made 
		a mistake and been ostracised from society, had sought new fields, where 
		they made herculean efforts to live down the past and become respectable 
		citizens. The others were those who had not learned to make of failure a 
		stepping-stone to higher things. Having left their country for their 
		country’s good, they were there under a change of sky without any change 
		of purpose. These are the men who are not wanted in a new country. Most 
		of them should be kept at home in an asylum for inebriates. The colonies 
		of Great Britain want the best and most enterprising of her sons. But my task is done. 
		Winnipeg is a city now, and it is not for me to enter upon a long 
		account of civilised life. That would be encroaching upon the ground of 
		civilised authors. I profess only to write — very imperfectly—of savage 
		life. I have given merely an 
		outline of my story, leaving out the beginning and the end, and cutting 
		short the middle. Such as it is, I can only ask for it the reader’s 
		lenient judgment. Whatever of error he finds n it, let him, like the 
		recording angel, “drop a tear upon the damning page.” I have given a 
		simple record of a unique career, a career which has offered 
		opportunities, perhaps, exceptionally wide and varied, of toiling 
		tirelessly, of watching vigilantly, of reflecting deeply, of suffering 
		patiently. These great solitudes have a speech and a language of their 
		own, which need no telling, a wisdom calmer, perhaps, and wider than the 
		wisdom of the hurrying multitude. One lesson at least they seem to teach 
		— that out of suffering comes the serious mind, out of salvation the 
		grateful heart, and out of deliverance faith—“Soft stillness and the 
		night become the touches of sweet harmony.” “Beannachd lcibh” = 
		Fare ye well. FINIS. |